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Are you someone who thinks of terrorist bombings and civil war whenever Belfast is mentioned? Not me, not anymore. I traveled there recently and discovered so much more than just a history of war and political dissent.
Upon arrival, Belfast didn’t surprise me. Not a cosmopolitan city, but an industrial one, scars earned in a war torn past were visible. Eager to see these scars close up and learn what the Troubles were really about I embarked on a Black Cab tour of West Belfast with three others from the hostel.
For six pounds each (about $15 CND) we received a three-hour tour complete with local insight and perspective from our driver. The colorful murals we viewed depicted political alliances, historical scenes, heroes and martyrs of the cause as well as cries for peace. A barbed wire topped ‘peace wall’ still separates what used to be one community into two, only now the gate at the end stands unguarded and open to allow unrestricted passage. The peace agreement was signed in 1998 and internal violence has steadily decreased. Tourists were never a target, even in the height of the Troubles, and Northern Ireland still has one of the lowest tourist related crime rates in the world.
Originally thinking there wasn’t much to see in Belfast except the murals and the Sinn Fein offices I was excited to be proven wrong. I discovered a walkable city with much to offer the budget traveler. Belfast Castle, City Hall, and the Ulster Museum all offer free admission. Don’t think because it’s free that it isn’t worth checking out. As someone who would rather be hiking a mountain instead of city streets these stops kept me surprisingly entertained.
The Ulster Museum became one of my favorite memories. Only planning to spend an hour or two there I was amazed to find that more than four hours had passed while I investigated a small room with natural glow-in-the-dark rocks and stones, a sandbox that challenged me to replicate an ancient stone Dolmen, and a to-scale replica of the Titanic as it was built in the Belfast Shipyard. Also intriguing was the eerie sight of the first mummy to be displayed outside of Egypt (not very pretty!), and a well rendered history of the native Indians in North America.
The Grand Opera house on Great Victoria St. is just that, grand. After being bombed during The Troubles was restored in 1980 and once again lives up to its title. Evenings it offers up world class theater, musicals, ballet and comedies to those that can afford such things. In the afternoons however, if there are no rehearsals going on and you ask nicely at the stage door (on Glengall St.) they will give you a free tour.
If bargain hunting or window-shopping is something you enjoy then St.George’s Market is the place to go. Open only on Tuesdays and Fridays this covered marketplace has been the place to go for anything from fresh fish and produce to discount clothing for more than a hundred years.
For those that want to stay active during their visit, the new Millennium Trail is great for walking or biking. You can rent a bike and have a short ride, or the twenty-mile route from Whiteabbey to Lisburn. If watching others being active is more your style, then on most Saturdays you can visit Windsor Park on Donegall Avenue and watch a football (it’s known in Canada as soccer) game. On Sunday afternoons at Casement Park in Andersontown, West Belfast Hurling, Gaelic Football, and Camogie are played. All Irish athletics that combine speed, skill, and a degree of risk for your entertainment.
With good reason the Irish are famous worldwide for their ‘craic'(pronounced crack and meaning good cheer and good conversation) and their ales. Both are plentiful in the many pubs in and around Belfast. Some are full of university students and young partygoers but throughout the city are quieter ones. When looking for the perfect spot for an afternoon pint I suggest you visit Whites Tavern. Serving drinks since 1603 it is the oldest pub in the city, and well worth an hour or two of your time. Another interesting pub to visit is The Crown Liquor Saloon. This National Trust owned pub is a testament to Irish workmanship. Gilded ceilings, carved wood, stained glass windows, and booths that fit 2-10 people comfortably make it a highly trafficked public house.
Now when I hear Belfast being mentioned in conversation or on television I remember the things I saw, the people I met and the emotions I experienced when there. The Belfast City Guide states that “there are no strangers here” and I recommend that everyone experience this welcoming city full of heart at some point in their travels.